For over a century, Carnaval has been a time when the island shakes off its everyday routine and bursts into an island-wide party of music, dance, and pure joy.
Deeply rooted in the island’s history, Carnaval has grown from a community-driven, anything-goes spectacle into a more polished, show-stopping event. But its heart still beats to the rhythm of drums, laughter, and salsa moves that may or may not be fueled by a few too many tequilas.
Back in the mid-1800s, Yucatecan settlers brought Carnaval with them to Isla Mujeres. Inspired by Cuban influences and fueled by an island-sized love of fun, the festival quickly became a highlight of the year. Everyone participated. No one sat on the sidelines. Dancing barefoot on the sand streets, homemade costumes, and completely ridiculous competitions? Yes, please!
Even Cuban poet José Martí, when visiting Isla in 1877, took note of the way islanders celebrated:
“(…) These women dance so smoothly, as if joy itself is woven into their steps.”
Translation: Isleñas have always known how to party.
From the early days, Carnaval was a full-blown island-wide free-for-all of fun. Everyone participated—from tiny tots to their great-grandmas. Families and friends formed dance troupes (comparsas), performing on the beach, in the streets, and in the town square, often wearing whatever costumes they could dream up from old sacks, palm leaves, flowers, and seashells. They even wore dried decorated tortillas as earrings and fish bones as necklaces — questionably stylish but totally festive!
Music was the fuel that kept the party going. If it made noise, it was an instrument! Traditional guitars, violins, and accordions set the tone, while pots, pans, and even bottles became makeshift percussion. When one group of musicians needed a break, another jumped in—because stopping was never an option.
And what’s a good party without a little playful roasting? Islanders wrote and performed original songs poking fun at local politicians, business owners, and the occasional nosy neighbor. When cars and pickup trucks finally made their way to Isla, they got the full Carnaval treatment, decked out in island flair. And just like that, the Carnaval Parade was born.
As for the Carnival King and Queen? They were chosen by popular acclaim, with charisma, theatrics, and unbeatable dance moves being all that mattered.
The Absurd and Hilarious Basketball Game
Picture this — local men in extravagant and often very tight dresses, elaborate makeup, and the highest heels they could find, struggling to run, dribble, and shoot while the entire island cheered them on. It was part athleticism, part comedy, and all Carnaval.
The Cuban Night and Negradas
A nod to the island’s Afro-Caribbean roots, these nights featured cultural performances with handmade costumes, painted faces and bodies, and music that kept the island dancing until dawn.
Reina India
The island’s oldest resident was crowned as the “Reina India” (Indian Queen) and carried in a palanquin, symbolically borrowing the Carnaval Queen’s crown for a few hours in a touching tribute to the island’s elders.
Juan Carnaval’s Will
One of the most anticipated moments of Carnaval was the reading of Juan Carnaval’s will — a sharp, witty, and often scandalous roast of island life. No one was safe from its playful jabs, and the entire town gathered to hear the final, humorous “testament” before burning an effigy of Juan Carnaval himself, marking the official end of the festivities.
Like all traditions, Carnaval has changed over time, though less homegrown and spontaneous, the heart and soul is still very much Isla Mujeres. Today, the performances by groups of friends and local dance academy are polished, the costumes professionally designed, and the guest entertainment spectacular.
Carnaval has also grown to accommodate tourists, with grander parades, professional shows, and high-energy concerts. While some old-school islanders miss the “anything goes” chaos of past, the island’s Carnaval spirt is still very much alive, still Isla, and still one hell of a party!
Sources: Inspired by the historical accounts of Fidel Villanueva Madrid, lifelong chronicler of Isla Mujeres and the family photos of members of Recuerdos de Isla Mujeres.
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In the 1800s, pirate Jean Lafitte used Isla as a hideout. Just before Lent, he stole a bull to feed his crew – when he realized it was meant for a pre-Lenten fiesta he gave it back and the Pirates and Isleños partied and ate together…
Was it the island’s first Carnaval? We’ll never know.